Guatemala 2026
In June 2026 I was invited by clients/friends to spend a week in Guatemala, with the International Esperanza Project (IEP) visiting villages and installing cooking stoves and water filters in homes.
IEP is an organization that strives to strengthen communities in Guatemala by working directly with community leaders and families to make lasting improvements to homes, healthcare, and education. Each program has its own team and milestones. I was invited as part of a group “Impacting Homes” by installing vented, wood-burning, cooking stoves for much-improved indoor air quality and household water filters to turn unsafe water into safe drinking water.
IEP includes “Impacting Health” which involves volunteer medical groups traveling to Guatemala to run one-week clinics and surgical centers. The third group, “Impacting Education,” has built a school serving a range of ages from early childhood to older, vocational trade style teaching.
Our group goal coming into the week was to install 160 cooking stoves and water filters. We were broken up each day into groups of 2 or 3 people (7 groups total), a translator and a local technician to install the chimneys. We made a real personal connection with each family while we assembled the stoves and water filters.
Our home base was an old flour/wheat mill, Casa Xara, located in the hills of Sierra Madre, about 90 km from Guatemala City. There is a central lodge with private rooms, as well as small cottages nestled in the Molino Helvetia nature reserve. The flour mill was built by a Swiss family in the 1800’s and continued operating as a mill until 2005 when the base of operations was relocated to a more transportation-friendly facility. The mill does occasionally still operate and all the equipment is still in place so it feels like a living museum. Charlie is the “Homes” director and his family still runs the flour mill and offered tours during our stay.
Sunday June 7 (5 Stoves)
After a lovely breakfast by Mari and her cooks, we learned how to assemble a cooking stove. The stoves are made by Dona Dora, and they are brilliantly simple. Instead of cooking over an open fire, which is the way many Guatemalan families still do, they safely contain the fire and use about 60% less firewood. That’s a huge deal in a country where buying (or gathering) firewood consumes a significant portion of many household’s budgets and time. Better yet, the stove vents smoke outside, dramatically improving indoor air quality. Less smoke, healthier lungs, lower fuel costs…it’s one of these rare innovations that makes everyday life better in multiple ways.
We then gathered two gift bags each for the families we were about to visit. (Last night after dinner the entire group put together gift bags for the families, one bag of donated gifts for the children and one bag of donated items for the parents like matches, oven mitts, and utensils.)
We bussed to the Xepatan with 7 groups and were greeted by the families at their community hall where we were treated to a native dance and given woven blankets.
A tremendous amount of work has taken place behind the scenes before we ever show up at a house. IEP has communicated with the village and created a trusting relationship with the community leaders and families. Once a family has been selected, they are required to pay for a portion of the stove and water filter as part of a buy-in process. Once that has been finalized, the stove pieces are delivered to the house where we show up to meet and be introduced to the families and begin assembling the stoves. A clay fire box is set into a metal frame and aluminum heat shields are screwed to the frame. A heavy griddle is set onto the frame, and porcelain tiles give the stove some color and personality. Once the technician installs the chimney through the roof and seals the pipe to the metal roof, we start a fire to test the stove by making popcorn.
Day 1 of stoving I am on “Team Scott and Thom.” The first three stoves are relatively easy installs as they are on level concrete floors with concrete block walls and corrugated metal roofs. The families are very grateful for their stoves and are interested in watching us. After building the stove we light a fire to make a pot of popcorn and then do a little dance for the children.
Because this first day is Sunday many of the fathers and children were present. The fathers said some very nice words to us thanking us for our work.
The last two stoves of the day were more challenging, with even more rustic homes with mud floors and very little space. Despite the lack of amenities, the families were involved and smiling. We played with the children as we passed out toys to them from our gift bag.
The last home was clearly the poorest family of the day for us. The stove was installed next to a bed in a small room, not a dedicated kitchen like some of the other homes. However, what the family lacks in possessions they made up for in heart and gratitude.
After a van ride back to our casa and a very nice dinner as a group, we all gather afterwards to discuss our day and get to know each other.
Monday June 8 (5 Stoves)
After being greeted by the families at their local school, some of us toured the local museum in San Andres Semetabej, home to some ancient Mayan ruins that have been excavated in the area. I was on “Team Kalie and Santi.” Santi is from Guatemala City and has just graduated from high school. He volunteered this week and made a great translator as well as installer.
During the second stove install I was bitten by one of the many dogs that hang around the villages. It wasn’t a bad bite, but it broke the skin and bled a little. Fortunately, in our group we travel with local doctors. Dr Giraraldo met me at the local clinic and negotiated the care I needed with the clinic. I was out of my element in this small village as I do not speak any Spanish. I was very impressed watching Dr Giraldo manage my care and felt taken care of. I was administered a tetanus shot and my first of four rabies shots (and no, they are not nearly as painful as were warned when we were children!). Antibiotics and probiotics were waiting for me when we got back to the casa.
After all this I finished stoving with “Team Susan and Greg” and then rode back to the casa for a late dinner and early evening as we all arrived back home tired.
Tuesday June 9 (4 stoves)
Happily, I had no side effects from the dog bite. After our village ceremony I was put on “Team Greg and Alejandra” and our tech was Jose. All four homes were within walking distance once we traveled a short distance from the village by van and all had spectacular views of the countryside. The first stove install for Erika had a nice room clearly utilized as a kitchen with a small farm outside the house. Erika lives far away from her village where she grew up and her husband works far away, too. Her children were at school, but it was clear that she did not have a close-knit family nearby.
We complimented Erika on her children going to school. Guatemala only funds schooling until the 6th grade. After that the children are expected to help at home or work in the fields. The wealthier families can keep their children at school.
We installed the next stove for David; the first time a man was receiving a stove for us. He also officiated the village ceremony when we arrived at the village. He was getting a stove so his entire family can cook and eat together. Dona Nancy’s stove was our last of the day, and it shared space in a chicken coop. Her son, Henderson, lit up when we gave him a matchbox car and his father was very helpful. So many of the families we work with have so little but are so grateful for our help and so giving with anything they have to offer.
Wednesday June 10
It’s another four-stove day, but 30 minutes closer to our casa then the day before. I was put on “Team Dale” and technician, Jonathan. It was also another day when all four homes were within walking distance of each other.
The Pecorral Tecpan village ceremony was at the school and all the stoves went to families with kids in the school. We received a block of chocolate as gifts. At our first stove install we got a cooking lesson from the mother who showed us how she makes corn meal by grinding corn and spices by hand into a mash.
I made friends with Dacey at our next stove; she was very curious and helpful putting the stoves together. I shared one of my friend bracelets with her that I had received earlier.
Back at the casa we were treated to a lovely lasagna meal and line dancing led by CJ. Who knew I liked line dancing?
Thursday June 11
After breakfast we traveled to San Juan Comalapa for a welcome ceremony at the community center. A young, shy, boy sang a couple of songs for us, and then the families generously gifted us homemade woven baskets.
The newcomers to Team Excellence were made team captains so I got to boss around Greg and Debbie, and our tech Alvaro, for our last two stoves. I named us “Team Mainiacs.”
Our last stove was installed for an older couple, Maria Catarina and Antonio, who sported a wonderful straw hat. I took my favorite photo of this couple, and afterwards Antonio had some beautiful words to say to us.
After our last stove install, we piled into vans and were dropped off at a pier on Lake Atitlan, a massive volcanic lake similar to Lake Tahoe in the US, where we boarded a small boat and crossed the lake to the lovely water-side restaurant, Kinnik, for lunch. The van ride home was very long as we ran into extremely thick fog. We drove at elevations of over 8,500 feet at times.
Friday June 12
On the way to Antigua we visited and toured the IEP school. Just a few years earlier it had only two concrete block buildings. Today there’s a new, modern designed campus for the youngest of students in classrooms to vocational programs learning trades and job skills. Our tour included hydroponics growing, Montessori-based teaching, and fully equipped rooms for cooking, sewing, software coding, and beauty classes.
We spent some time at the vocational store and meeting with the students. We also had a dance-off with the kids and I got to hang out with my new friend Diego.
After the school tour we enjoyed a pizza lunch at an outdoor restaurant and then found our way to the Pensativo House Hotel where we stayed for our last two nights in Guatemala. The hotel had a rooftop restaurant/bar with views of three volcanoes surrounding Antigua, Agua, Fuego, and Acatenango. Fuego is one of the most consistently erupting volcanoes in the world, erupting every 10 to 14 minutes with poofs of ash and smoke.
I spent the afternoon walking around with Stacey and Cathy (also known as Savage) and then wandered off to find some sketches. The entire group met up for the final dinner and banquet. We took turns reflecting on the week and the relationships we made.
After the banquet I taught some of my new friends the game of Pigs. I was able to win a game in Guatemala to get my name in the book. Dr Jose won the other game.
Saturday June 13
A rooftop breakfast with views of the surrounding volcanoes was a perfect way begin to our last full day in Guatemala. I started the day with Dale, Stacey, and Cathy touring the Capuchinas ruin. It’s a beautiful 18th century religious complex with a circular tower of retreat. After a little shopping I spent much of the afternoon walking around and finding sketches.
I had a nice dinner, also in a ruin, and a quiet evening as the entire group was tired.
Sunday June 14
After another lovely breakfast, I packed my remaining vials of rabies vaccine, along with a newly purchased, locally made, duffel bag for my gifts, and then left for the airport to fly home with Dale, Stacey, and Cathy.
I will continue to reflect on this trip for some time. We are materially blessed living in the US. The people of Guatemala might not have a lot of belongings, but they have so much heart and spirit, and want to improve their children’s lives by saving, sometimes for years, to improve their quality of life in their homes.
I must thank Susan and Scott Salka. We met as clients and have become friends. Their generosity in sponsoring this trip and the effort they have invested into the IEP organization and school is truly remarkable. The work we do is not easy but it’s inspirational and heartwarming to know you are truly making a difference in people’s lives.